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How your hair is rolled, and what kind of rods are used, are both essential to your permanent wave’s finished look.

How to Roll Hair – Tips and Tricks

Read the tips below to achieve the look you want.

1. Generally speaking, the tightness or looseness of a permed curl is determined by the size of the rods used. The smaller the rod, the tighter the curl; the larger the rod, the bigger the curl.

2. A basic perm set is the five-section set: it features five nape-to-forehead sections.

3. For the crispest curls, hair should be parted no wider than 6 mm (1/4 inch) before being rolled onto rods.

4. To create a strong curl that is unmarred by rod marks or unevenness, strands are rolled “off-base”. This means a section is combed and held at a 45° angle from the head.

5. End papers are small pieces of paper that are folded over the tips before rolling. These help protect the ends from damage.

6. Hair that is longer than 13 cm (5 inches) does best when rolled in two rollers per parting – called piggyback rolling – or rolled onto tube rods that can be looped around the strands; this looks a bit like a rag-roller set.

7. To create a perm – sections of hair are wound around the rods starting from the top of the head and working down the length of the hair to the ends.

Having hair extensions is a best option for those who are sick and tired of wearing the same hairstyle over and over again and yet wanted to achieve a new hairstyle that can be changed immediately. With hair extensions, the hair can achieve instant highlights, thickness, or length volume in just few hours. Not all hair extensions are suitable for all hair types. Some methods of it may not be suitable for certain hair conditions and textures.

Hair extensions are usually attached to the natural hair with the use of various advanced methods. Among these methods include clipped in, heat-sealed in, braid-in, sew-in, warm or cold fusion, and bonding. The hair used for the extensions varies in quality and price. It can be human or synthetic as well. The method to be used in attaching the extensions depends on the type of hair to be used.

Normally, hair extensions are very expensive especially if the wearer goes for the quality. Since the price is very expensive, the wearer usually gets what they pay for the hair extensions. Before performing methods of hair extensions, there is a required special training for the hairstylist. This training is provided by different hair extension companies as well as certification to those who will pass the training. In short, a hairstylist must be certified in special training of hair extensions before performing the methods.

The term “natural hair” encompasses a wide array of styles, from short naturals to thick Afros, from braids to locks. By natural it means hair that is not chemically treated, hot-combed, or weaved. The advantage of such styles is that they tend to work with the hair’s texture instead of against it, minimizing the potential for damage. It also reflects and proudly displays our ethnic heritage. In recent years, these often low-maintenance styles have become more popular and accepted in our culture and in the mainstream. But don’t forget-having a “natural” hairstyle does not mean that you do nothing to your hair.

Hair Washing
Natural hair should be washed once a week. Look for shampoos that contain moisturizers as well as mild cleansers. Products formulated for “dry or damaged” hair may work best. Use a small amount of shampoo to cleanse the scalp and hair strands; rinse thoroughly. If you wear braids or cornrows, wash every one to two weeks, paying extra attention to the scalp. Women who wear locks should shampoo weekly or every ten days with products for dry hair.

Hair Conditioning
After shampooing, follow with an instant conditioner. Distribute the conditioner throughout the hair, especially on ends, then rinse. If your hair is dry and coarse, treat it to a deep conditioner once a month or so. These treatments will coat the hair shaft and give your natural tresses the shine they need to look healthy and lustrous.

Hair Styling and Trimming
Depending on your style choice, “natural” hair styling may take some time and patience. And you’ll still need to be careful not to damage your hair in the process.

Naturals
Whether close-cropped or Afro length, a “natural” cut probably requires the least amount of at-home maintenance. You can air-dry .hair or use a low wattage hair dryer. Use a soft-bristle brush, wide-toothed pick, or your fingers to detangle. A light hair oil or pomade can be used for moisturizing. You may want to also apply a light gel or pomade for styling. You’ll need frequent trims-once or twice a month-to maintain the shape of your hair. Wrap hair at night with a silk or satin scarf to prevent frizzing and drying.

Hair Braids/Cornrows
To tame fizzing of braids while air-drying, tie a thin scarf around them. Washing regularly is the key to preventing itching and dryness. Individual braids can be worn loose or pulled back in an elegant chignon. You will need to have your hair re-braided every two to twelve weeks. To protect your roots, make sure the hair braider is qualified and experienced. You’ll need to make sure she avoids two common mistakes braiding the hair too tightly and braiding with heavy extensions. Either practice will put stress on your roots and may lead to permanent hair loss. How do you know if the braids are too tight? If you cannot move your forehead or temples or raise your eyebrows after the braids are put in, they are too tight. If you have a headache afterward, they are too tight. Too-tight braiding is responsible for the receding hairlines seen on many black women who have worn braided styles for years. Wrap hair at night with a silk or satin scarf to prevent frizz and drying.

Hair Locks
Locks take a good deal of work and they are not maintenance-free. You must be committed to their care and have patience. If you use twists to initiate your locks, you will need to re-twist hair frequently-several times a month as the new growth appears. To do that, divide just-washed or moistened hair into sections (the smaller the section, the tighter the twist). Divide section in two and twist by either inserting a comb at the ends and turning the comb or by rolling the sections between your palms. Wrap hair at night with a silk or satin scarf to prevent frizz and drying. Variations on locks include yarn locks and silky locks. Don’t over-twist or twist too tightly as hair loss could develop. Avoid long, heavy locks, which could lead to hair loss.

Hair Twists
This popular style is a great way to give your hair a rest from chemicals, heat, and styling. Twists are also less permanent than locks and terrifically versatile. From flat twists and two-strand twists to corkscrew twists, you can experiment and find a style that suits your hair texture and length. “If you’ve never had your hair twisted, you might want to go to a salon for a professional twist or you can do it yourself. Avoid pulling on hair to while twisting. Most twist styles last two weeks. Wrap hair at night with a silk or satin scarf to prevent frizzing and unraveling of the style. At the end of the two weeks, take the time to untwist your hair gently to avoid breakage and knotting. Wash with a conditioning shampoo and conditioner. Trim every eight weeks or so. Again, to avoid hair loss or breakage, don’t over-twist or twist too tightly.

The production of all hair starts beneath the skin surface at the base of the hair follicle. Hair is made of the protein keratin, which also occurs in skin. Each hair strand is composed of three layers, including the cuticle, or outermost layer, the cortex or pigment-producing layer, and the medulla or innermost layer. Though keratin is a strong substance and the hair cuticle is designed to resist penetration of excess moisture and chemicals, our hair is by no means indestructible and each layer can be damaged by styling processes we use every day.

Black hair differs from white hair in a number of ways. For example, the follicles of our hair tend to be curved instead of straight. This curvature contributes to the hair’s curl. It also contributes to our tendency to develop ingrown hairs after shaving and may even be partly responsible for our propensity for hair loss or alopecia. Because our hair is so tightly coiled, it is often dry since the oil naturally produced in the scalp does not flow down from the curved follicle as readily and does not slide down the curled, knotted hair as it does down a straight follicle and straight hair. That’s one reason black women do not typically need to wash our hair as often as Whites-our hair simply does not get as oily. So we do not need to wash our hair every day or every other day like women with straight hair. But we do need to wash it more than once a month, which is not the practice of many black women. Washing weekly is a real must for all black women. Our grooming practices- relaxing, blow-drying, hot combing, washing once or twice a month-also tend to further dry out our scalps and hair.

Black hair, as seen in cross section under a microscope, tends to have a fiat, elliptical shape. A long strand viewed microscopically looks much like a twisted piece of ribbon instead of a straight one. This shape makes the hair more prone to forming very small knots. While this -knotting may make it easier to cultivate some styles like locks, it also makes it more difficult to comb and style straightened or natural hair. Because of this tendency, women of color may have more difficulty combing or brushing our hair without pulling on it with excessive force. “With constant and forceful combing and brushing comes breakage-a little breakage each day that accumulates. This continuous breakage is why many Black women can’t get the length that they desire, falsely believing that their hair won’t grow.

Another distinct difference between black and white hair is that black women have fewer elastic fibers anchoring the hair to the scalp at the dermal layer. “With fewer fibers, women of color may be more prone to hair shedding and loss. That characteristic, coupled with our culturally ingrained tendency to pull tightly on hair while braiding, for example, or while gathering hair into a taut ponytail, can lead to problems such as traction alopecia. The greater numbers of melanin granules in our hair, which account for its dark color, may also produce free radicals that can cause damage to hair and hair loss.

Black hair has many distinctive properties, but is not, by any means, all the same. Because our heritage often includes Native American, European, and/or Latin ancestry as well as African ancestry, “black hair” comes in endless variations. Hair type, texture, and length are all determined by genes, though some changes may come with age. As you learn about your hair’s unique texture and condition-and how to work with it-you’ll be closer to the healthy hair of your dream.